Showing posts with label mountains. Show all posts

The imposing triangular shadow of Adam�s Peak at sunrise is quite a sight

Location: Adam�s Peak�s shadow, Sri Lanka (6� 48' 41? N, 80� 29' 59? E)
Date: 3 March 1997; 6.15am
Camera: (analogue) Minolta compact with negatives and scanned

Adam�s Peak is the 4th highest peak in Sri Lanka. It is revered as a holy site by Buddhists, Hindus, Muslims and Christians. It has a 1.8m rock formation at the summit that resembles a footprint- the Buddhists regard that to be the footprint of Buddha, the (Hindu) Brahmans as that of Lord Shiva, the Muslims as that of Adam and the Portuguese Christians have conflicting claims that it is the footprint of St Thomas and the eunuch of Candace, the queen of Ethiopia. As such it is a popular and important pilgrim site. There are several routes to the mountain, involving walking up thousands of steps. Pilgrims normally starts very early in the morning so that they can be at the summit at sunrise to see the distinctive shape of the mountain casting a triangular shadow on the surrounding plain which can be seen to move quickly downward as the sun rises. In fact the walk up the summit during the wee hours of the morning itself can be quite a sight with the zigzag path leading up to the summit lit up by the lights of pilgrims.

Technorati Tags: Adam's Peak,Sri Lanka

Unforgettable sun rise over volcanoes from Gunung Penanjakan, Java

Location: Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park , East Java, Indonesia (7�45'8?S, 110�29'30?E)
Date: 25 December 1995; 5.50am
Camera: (analogue) Canon EOS 500N on negatives and scanned.

One of the most popular tourist destination on Java island Indonesia, has to be the Bromo-Tengger-Semeru National Park. The National Park offers great experience of proximity and view of a couple of mighty volcanoes, including the highest mountain, Mount Semeru, of Java. For the more energetic and adventurous (and I really mean adventurous) the National Park also offers an up-close-and personal encounter of the regular eruptions at the summit of Mount Semeru as well as an experience of standing above the clouds to enjoy a majestic sunrise view. Yet one can still enjoy a more laid-back, albeit early-rise and unforgettable Indonesia sunrise over the volcanoes from Gunung Penanjakan. However don�t forget your woollies- it is very cold at the mountainside at that time in the morning.

I want to go to Everest Base Camp again!!

Location: Rhongbuk Monastery (5,100m), Tibet, China (28.194N, 86.829E)
Date : 27 April 2003; 10.25am
Camera : Canon G1

I always wanted to go back to see Mount Everest, either the Nepali or Tibetan (Chinese) side. Going to the Base Camp from the Chinese side has become much more easier in terms of transportation and access, but the problem now is in fact access to Tibet. I just applied for a visa to visit China and to my horror, instead of just one page of form to complete, I have to fill 7 pages now!! And unlike in the past, this must be accompanied by airline bookings (this was introduced just before the Olympics but was never taken off since). Travelling into Tibet is now ever more strict. Chances of getting in without a TTP and getting away is rather difficult as there are now numerous checkpoints and the guards are more vigilant. Perhaps I should try the cycling option next time- I think they are less likely to check cyclists- as long as one dressed more Chinese-like, and of course, have to look Chinese.

Enjoying the sun rise above the clouds- Mount Semeru, Java, Indonesia

Location: At the summit of Mount Semeru, Indonesia (7�59'7.19"S 112�59'9.64"E)
Date: 18 July 2008; 6.15am
Camera: Canon 400D with Sigma 17-70/f2.8-4.5

One of the reasons people trek up to mountains is to enjoy the fabulous scenery and amazing sunset or sunrise. Mount Semeru is one of those places, as it is the highest mountain in Java. The sunrise at the top the peak is stupendous as one is virtually above the cloud covers. Often, depending on the direction of the sun, one can see his/her own shadow being casts on the clouds floating below them. Of course, one of the added excitement to trek up to the peak of Mount Semeru is the challenge (not easy to climb a volcano due to the deep ashes) and the adventure of standing beside a constantly-erupting active volcano. In fact lately it has been so actively erupting that the relevant authorities has banned any trekking to its summit.

These places will not see any foreigners for 3 months- Tibet

Location: Yarlung Valley, Tibet, China (29� 8' 38.76? N, 91� 48' 0.72? E)
Date: 26 May 2005; 10.45am
Camera: Canon 300D with kit kens

The Chinese government had done it again- they closed the province of Tibet to foreigners again! The closure this time is total- not even foreigners on packaged groups are allowed to enter Tibet for a period of three months. I have bemoaned how some places in Tibet are becoming a �once a lifetime� destination due to the now frequent and arbitrary closure to foreigners. The reasons given by the Chinese government this time are ostensibly�bad weather and insufficient supply of accommodation�. Well, the weather in China had not been bad until today and there were reports from the hospitality industry in Tibet expressing puzzlement at the so-called heavy demand on accommodation. In fact the real reasons are the anniversary of the Lhasa unrest three years ago and the timing of the convening of the parliament of the Tibetan government-in-exile in India. The government was trying to avoid leakage of any scenes of demonstrations or unrests of any kind that may result due to these events. While politically I have less of a problem regarding the so-called Tibetan issue, I do have lots of reservations regarding the governance and the iron-fist treatment of minority-dominated provinces such as Tibet and Xinjiang by the Chinese government.

Misty morning, blue sky and lake, snow mountains and a green island

Location: Motuariki Island, Lake Tekapo, South Island, New Zealand (S43�56'22'' E170�31'36'')
Date: 26 May 2009, 11.10am
Camera: Canon 300D with EF 70-200/f4 IS L

The MacKenzie Country area od the South Island is an area of unparalleled beauty even in a country of so many spots of immense beauty. The most well-known spot around here is the scenic Lake Tekapo; but there are so many lakes around here to explore. All of these places are pretty as the snow-covered Southern Alps is always there as the backdrop. An example is Lake McGregor; another is this little tree-covered island sitting in the striking blue glacial-fed waters of Lake Tekapo. One of the best vantage point to enjoy the panorama is around Mount John Observatory.

Technorati Tags: Lake Tekapo,Motuariki Island,MacKenzie Country,New Zealand,Southern Alps

Indiana Jones would be proud of this�� Passu, Pakistan

Location: Hussaini Village, Northern Territories, Pakistan (36�25'25.26"N 74�52'54.78"E)
Date: 2 July 2007; 9.15am
Camera: Canon 400D with Sigma 17-70/f2.8-4.5

Apart from trekking the Karakorum Mountains, one of the most amazing experiences in Pakistan is crossing the suspension bridge across the Hunza River from Hussaini Village to Zar Abad. This rope bridge is long and un-maintained, missing a few planks. There are actually two bridges; the old one was broken and hangs in tatters right next to the current one. Crossing the bridge is quite a challenge, not only because of its condition, the length and the quick flowing river underneath but also the precariousness due to its shaking by strong winds brought by the flowing river. However to the locals, this is their only means to cross the wide river and they cross it as if walking on land, without much of a blink of the eye. There is another suspension bridge across the river slightly further south- better condition but just as scary. Apart from the sense of adventure, one can also enjoy the fabulous view of the Passu Cathedral (mountains in photo) from here. This place is highly recommended and is a �must-go� for anyone travelling the Karakorum Highway.

Technorati Tags: Pakistan,Hunza River,Passu,Passu Cathedrals,Hussaini,suspension bridge,Karakorum Highway

Glacier Point is the place to watch sunset on Half Dome, Yosemite NP, USA

Location: Half Dome from Glacier Point, Yosemite National Park, California, USA (37� 43' 50.99? N, 119� 34' 22.01? W)
Date: 15 September 2006; 6.25pm
Camera: Canon Canon 300D with kit lens

I guess I did not spend enough days at Yosemite during my visit and so was not as impressed by the National Park as I would have thought. I may have a total different experience and impression if I had few more days to explore and trek into the woods, away from the crowd. Anyway it was a great place to spend a few days to be with nature again. One of the spot I enjoyed most during my Yosemite visit is Glacier Point, a viewpoint at a height of 2,199m. From here, one could see the various highlights of Yosemite National Park including Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, Nevada Fall and so on. It is especially lovely during sunset. Unfortunately it was dry season when I visited and so there were no waterfalls to be seen.

Technorati Tags: Yosemite,Glacier Point,Half Dome

Mount Merapi at sun rise, before the current round of eruptions

Location: Borobudur, East Java, Indonesia (7�36'29?S 110�12'14?E?)
Date: 21 July 2008; 6.10am
Camera: Canon 400D with Sigma 17-70/f2.8-4.5

Mount Merapi is one of the most active volcanoes in Indonesia. It has just blown its top for the last 2 weeks and had claimed at least 150 lives. It is a beautiful volcano to look at when it is inactive especially as a backdrop to the fabulous Borobudur complex. This is diametrically different to what it looks like in the last few days with reports of ashes being thrown up 8 km into the sky. In fact the volcanic ashes even fell on Borobudur, 28 km away causing experts to fear that the acidic ash might damage the historic site. Though it is dangerous to live close to the volcano, the fertility of its soil resulting from the volcanic ashes, had attracted a huge population of farmers on its slope. I would venture to guess that after the ashes had settled, farmers will flock back to till on its slopes.

Technorati Tags: Merapi,Indonesia,volcano

The gracious Siguniang Shan of Sichuan, China

Location: Siguniang Shan, Sichuan, China (30�59'59.57"N 102�51'4.85"E)
Date: 29 October 2006, 4.40pm
Camera: Canon 300D with kit lens

Siguniang Shan means the �4 Sisters Mountains�. It is located in the Aba Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Sichuan, the same prefecture of the famed Jiuzhaighou Scenic Reserve. Siguniang is a Nature Reserve as well and is managed by the same company that has managed Jiuzhaighou. Hence the protocol of visiting this place is similar to Jiuzhaighou- one pays for entrance fee and a fee for the hop-on-hop-off bus service within the Reserve. There are three valleys within the reserve and there is an entrance fee (separately) for each valley.

Siguniang is well-known for its snow peaks, valleys, forests, lakes and biology. It is a UNESCO Heritage Site together with the Wolong and Jiajin Mountains forming the Sichuan Giant Panda Sanctuaries. According to the legend of the local Tibetan people, millennia ago there was a mountain god named Balang who had four beautiful daughters. The youngest of them was the tallest and had the most graceful figure. A devil admired the girls and wanted to marry them. So the devil challenged Balang to a fight for the girls. The devil won the battle and killed Balang, so the girls fled but eventually died from cold weather. Their bodies became the Siguniang Mountains and their father became the Balang Mountain. The Siguniang Mountains stand graceful, shoulder by shoulder plunging their heads into the clouds, with glaciers wrapping around their shoulders and green forests around their waists. The youngest girl is the tallest at 6,250m above sea level.

Technorati Tags: Siguniang,Sichuan,Aba,Panda Sanctuaries,Balang

Location: Namtso, Tibet, China, (30� 42' 0? N, 90� 33' 0? E)

Date: 21 April 2003; 7.05am
Camera: Canon G1

Namtso meaning Heavenly Lake in Tibetan, is one of 3 holy lakes of Tibet; the other 2 are Manasarovar and Yamdroktso. Namtso is also the biggest lake in Tibet, the highest lake (4,718m) in the world and the 2nd largest saltwater lake in China (after Qinghai Lake) . Tibetans Buddhists believe Buddha will assemble to hold religious meeting at Namtso in the year of sheep on the Tibetan calendar. So circumambulation (kora) around the lake at the right moment equals 100 thousand times of that in normal years. Every year thousands of Buddhists from Tibetan areas in the 5th & 6th month of the Tibetan calendar, come to the lakeside on pilgrimage to pay homage and pray.

This and many other beautiful places in Tibet are now less accessible to foreigners like me. After the pro-Tibet protests prior to the 2008 Olympics, China had clamped down and strictly enforced the travel restrictions on foreigners to Tibet. These days no independent travellers can get to Tibet without going through the necessary paperwork. To travel there, one not only require a Tibet Travel Permit (TTB) as in the past, a full package have to be booked beforehand with guide and a vehicle ready (if one wants to travel outside Lhasa) when one lands in Lhasa. In other worlds, unlike in the past when one can do travel arrangements including vehicle while in Lhasa, all of these must be done before getting to Tibet. Furthermore there are more checkpoints where TTB are actually checked. I considered myself lucky to have already visited so many places and met so many people in Tibet- many of which were already off-limit to foreigners in the past.

Technorati Tags: Tibet,China,Namtso

The summit of K2 (Chogori) peeking out of the clouds

Location: K2 summit from Concordia, Pakistan (35� 44' 0? N, 76� 31' 0? E)
Date: 9 July 2007; 75.30am
Camera: Canon 400D with EF 70-200/f4 IS L
My trek to the K2 Base Camp 3 years ago was not as tough as I expected. The altitude was high but was not as exhaustive as I can remember compared to the trek to Everest Base Camp. I guess one reason is that we had porters for the K2/Concordia Trek- which anyone trekking to Concordia must, because of the lack of villages and supplies on the way- whereas I did then Khumbu trek to Gokyo and EBC all on my own i.e. carrying my own pack, without any porter or guide. Furthermore trekking alone in Khumbu, I could walk as far or as long as I like- and tend to do further/longer most days- while in group trekking, the distance walked each day is not as demanding. Regardless it is always a sense of achievement reaching the Base Camps.

Technorati Tags: K2,Pakistan,Concordia

Pumori above the �black rock�, Kala Pattar, Nepal

Location: GorakShep, Nepal (27� 59' 45? N, 86� 49' 42.3? E)
Date: 21 April 2000; 8.45am
Camera: Canon EOS 500N (analogue) on slides and scanned

Kala Pattar (meaning �black rock� in Hindi) is in fact a brown hump opposite the mighty giants of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It lies just below the south face of Pumori (7,165m). Kala Pattar is like a �must� for anyone who trek to the Everest Base Camp on the Nepali side; reason being the summit of Everest is not visible either from the base camp itself or from a lower base such as GorakShep. However the mountains are pretty spectacular from Kala Pattar- the best view is of course at the top. Most trekkers will first arrive at GorakShep � which are those huts in the picture- and ascend from the back of those huts. GorakShep itself WAS the original base camp during the days of Sir Edmund Hillary. It is now the last place any trekkers i.e. those without climbing permits, can stay overnight (not allowed to camp at Base Camp without climbing permits).

Technorati Tags: Pumori,Kala Pattar,Gorakshep,Everest,Khumbu

Locations: Feilaisi, Yunnan, China (28�29'44.27"N 98�54'9.21"E)

Date: 8 July 2004; 6.40am
Camera: Canon 300D with kit lens

Meili Xueshan is a subrange of the Hengduan Shan at the convergence of Tibet, Yunnan, Myanmar and Sichuan. The Meili range has more than 20 permanent snow peaks with at least 6 that are over 6,000m. Kawa Karpo (or Prince Peak) at 6,740m is the highest mountain of the range and in Yunnan. It is a holy mountain to the Tibetans- its importance is reinforced by the fact that of the 13 holy mountains, it is the only "male" mountain. Many Tibetans pilgrims come to circumambulate around the mountain on a 13-day kora- it will take us longer to do so. It is said that one has to be very lucky to even see Kawa Karpo as it is mostly shrouded in clouds. Many visitors to Yunnan venture as far as the so-called Shangri-la (old name Zhongdian) and go no further north. Whilst Shangri-la is a popular destination for many tourists as it was the place where most visitors would experience the Tibetan feel for the first time without going to Tibet ("was" because it no longer is due to Sino-isation of the town), it is really an unexciting place. Feilaisi is about 15 km outside another forgettable town, Deqin, which lies about 145km north of Shangri-la. This is where one should come to enjoy the mountain scenery in Yunnan, see the LancangJiang (Mekong River) and probably do some light trekking into the beautiful valley of Yubeng. Trust me- this is one journey that you will not regret going.

Technorati Tags: Kawa Karpo,Meili Xueshan,Hengduan Shan,Yunnan,circumambulate,Feilaisi,Deqin

Chiu Gompa face off with Mount Kailash, Tibet. China

Location: Chiu Gompa & Mount Kailash, Ngari, Tibet, China (30�45'55"N 81�22'5"E)
Date: 8 August 2007, 4.20am
Camera: Canon 400D with Canon 70-200/f4L USM

There are a few gompas surrounding Lake Manasarovar the source of the mighty Indus River (incidentally the name �India� is derived from the river). The most well-known of these gompas is Chiu Gompa which is situated in Chiu Village. It is often used by as an overnight stopover by trekkers participating in packaged trekking groups. The gompa, sitting atop a craggy hill, enjoys a fabulous vantage point overlooking the lake while Mount Kailash is visible over the distance to the north. In fact the gompa has one of the best locations in this region to view the two major reasons to visit this remote part of Tibet.

Cho Oyu at dusk, outside Tingri, Tibet, China

Location : Cho Oyu from Tingri, Tibet, China (28� 34' 0? N, 86� 38' 0? E)
Date : 24 April 2003; 5.45am
Camera : Canon G1

Cho Oyu or jo bo dbu yag in Tibetan at 8,201m is the 6th highest mountain in the world. It is one of those giants that lie right at the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. Just like Everest or Qomolongma in Tibetan, expeditions to climb these mountains often start from both sides of the border. Cho Oyu is supposedly the easiest of the 8,000 metres Himalayan peaks to climb. The pass, Nangpa La, which lies a few kilometres west of the mountain used to serve as a main trading route between the Sherpas of Khumbu, Nepal and the Tibetans; and Tingri (4,300m) was a very important trading post for such traders. The Sherpas used to trade rice, grain and so on for Tibetan wool, livestock and salt. Today Tingri is still a small town of about 500 people but has a large PLA garrison/barrack at the edge of the town. No tourists will really go to Tingri unless they are on their way to the Everest Vase Camp or overland to Nepal. This will probably preserve the town's character a little longer but probably not for too long as an overland trip to the so-called Everest Base Camp (on the Chinese side ie the northeast face) is like part of any trips to Tibet.

Technorati Tags: Cho Oyu,Tibet,Himalaya,Tingri,Nangpa La,jo bo dbu yag

Ghandruk, in the shadows of the Annapurna mountains

Location: Ghandruk on Annapurna Circuit, Nepal (28� 29' 24? N, 83� 50' 24? E)
Date: 14 April 2000; 4.45pm
Camera: Canon EOS 500N (analogue) on slides and scanned

The Annapurna Circuit trek is one of the most popular trekking routes in Nepal. Every trekker who has done this circuit will know and probably remember this beautiful Gurung village in the shadows of the snowy peaks of the Annapurna and Machhapuchhere. At 2,012m it is inhabited by Gurungs, one of the many indigenous people of Nepal�s mountainous valleys. The Gurungs are more well-known overseas as they form a big bulk of the famous Gurkha soldiers, famed for their bravery and loyalty. Ghandruk is a quaint village with a very relaxed atmosphere and the major past-time (for most foreigners and trekkers anyway) is mountain-watching.

Technorati Tags: Ghandruk,Annapurna,Gurung

Mackinnon Pass, the highest point of the Milford Track, New Zealand

Location: Mackinnon Pass, Milford Track, South Island, New Zealand (44�48'7"S 167�46'13"E)
Date: 20 December 1996; 10.20am
Camera: (analogue) Canon EOS 500N on negatives and scanned

Milford Track is one of the most popular trails in NZ, popularly referred to as �The Finest Walk in the World�. It is 53.5km long and has some beautiful landscape along the trail of glaciated alpine mountains and lakes, waterfalls, rainforests and wetlands. The trail finishes at the Milford Sound, where trekkers will have to take a ferry to cross the sound. The peak season for walking the trail is in the summer months when access is highly regulated. Trekkers must complete the train in 4 days (and 4 days only, nothing more or less) in one direction. No camping is allowed- so trekkers must stay at the huts along the trail. The huts have bunks and supply of gas and water; trekkers have to bring their own sleeping bags, food and cooking utensils. A maximum of 90 trekkers can start on the trail each day and these 90 people must move on to the next hut every day; so one always see the same 89 other trekkers for the 4 day duration. The walk can be done easily independently as it is clearly marked. It is so popular during the summer months that it is not uncommon to have to book a place 12 months ahead! Milford Track is very spectacular especially after some rains with waterfalls everywhere as rainwater trails down the vertical cliffs.

Technorati Tags: Milford Track,Milford Sound,Mackinnon Pass

The ancient Tea Horse Trail of China

Location: Horse caravan on the way to Chawalong, Tibet, China ( 28� 30' 0? N, 98� 24' 0? E)
Date: 4 May 2005; 10.45am
Camera: Canon 300D with kit kens

There is a good article about the ancient Tea Horse Trail in the latest issue of the National Geographic magazine (the article has a factual error- Budweiser is never available everywhere in China. Perhaps the author is trying to make the majority of the readers, who are American feel more �at home�). The Tea Horse Trail was an ancient route used by traders to transport much needed and appreciated tea to Tibet and in return bring the famed Tibetan horses back to China. It was a series of routes, crossing over high mountain passes from Sichuan and Yunnan into (then) Tibet. It was amazing because of the hardship and amazing terrains the routes passed. The article focused on the �Middle route� which is the most difficult as it crosses some very high passes and can only be accomplished by human carrying the compressed tea bricks. Some of the other routes are no less exciting due to the deep gorges and perilous environment they passed. Though the majority of such routes are no longer in use, some are still very important as there are the only connections for people along them. An example is the Tea Horse Trail along the Nujiang Gorge (or Salween River) from Bingzhongluo in northwest Yunnan into the south of Tibet (see these articles for a description of the route/trek and an alternate entry into Tibet). The route is perilously narrow, snaking along the river and is susceptible to frequent landslides, so unsuitable for vehicles. There are many remote villages along the route and their needs for necessities such as sugar and salt (as well as beer) can only be brought in by horse caravans. The scenery along this section of the Tea Horse Trail is simply breathtaking where human and animals are simply dwarfed by the immensity and majesty of the mountains and deep gorges (see photo). This is a part of China that very few people have seen and is changing rapidly, just like the rest of the country. This photo and journey description was in mid-2005. My friend, Michael had already reported in late 2007 that a section of the route in Yunnan is now passable to 4WD�s.

Technorati Tags: Nujiang,Tea Horse Trail,Bingzhongluo,Salween River

Porters on Baltoro Glacier on way to Concordia, Pakistan

Location: On Baltoro Glacier, Concordia, Pakistan (?35� 43' 60 N 76� 16' 60 E)
Date: 6 July 2007; 7.25am
Camera: Canon 400D with Sigma 17-70/f2.8-4.5

I have never been on an expedition-type trek until the trek to Concordia/K2. All my previous treks including those in the Himalayas, China, NZ, South East Asia and so on are mainly without guides or porters. Even if there are guides involved, there are no porters to carry our belongings. So the trek to Concordia was a new experience, and quite an interesting one. As there are no villages or any means to get food/water all the way to K2 Base Camp, all the supplies must be carried for the 10+ days return trek. Similarly all the necessary cooking and eating utensils as well as bedding needs (tents and sleeping bags etc) must be brought on the trek. There were about 10 of us and we had up to 30+ porters at the beginning of the trek. The number slowly dwindles as some were sent back along the way as supplies were consumed- the porters are aware that their services are only needed for part of the trek. This is important as they are paid by the days (and distance); so it is necessary that they know what they are going to be paid for- unlike some stories that I heard in Nepal where trekkers engaged guides/porters for a certain trek but send them back when they met friends on the trek and decide to pool their resources by using less guides/porters. This is rather unethical and is rumoured to be common practice by trekkers of particular nationalities. Porters make a hard living and they are an essential and important component of long and arduous treks, and more so, on climbing and other expeditions. They should and must be treated with respect.

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